Basic Method Overview

Basic overview and links to suppliers/products

Moderator: clipinqueen

Basic Method Overview

Postby sherrie215 on Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:16 am

With the permission of JennyRR I have posted this information that she put together.

Let's start at the very beginning. Extensions are very confusing. There are many of us here who have been doing this for awhile, and we still don't know what certain methods and techniques are called, but hopefully this will serve as a good overview. (I'm leaving out many details here for the sake of space, so ask as many follow-up questions on the boards as necessary.)

Extensions can be defined as the process of adding hair to your existing hair to create length and/or volume. They can be either synthetic (manmade) or human hair (hair that is imported, primarily from Asia, and usually chemically treated to match different hair types). Synthetic hair is generally categorized by its quality, the highest quality being monofibre or thermofiber (monofilment, such as Dome, Prostyles, PlastikHaar, Trimco, etc.; or thermofiber such as WaWa, Hot Stuff Fusion, Freetress Futura, Ebonyline Adore, etc.). Human hair categorization is more complex, so I wont delve into it here, except to say that some of the terms used to describe the different grades are Remy, Remi, virgin, single-drawn, double-drawn, "European," Indian, temple, Asian, cuticle, non-cuticle, and so forth. There's a lot of debate on what the best human hair is, and while there's no clear consensus, the brands/websites that have gotten the best, most consistent reviews are Bohyme, His and Her Cuticle, Extensions-Plus, and Glamourhair Remi. For untreated Indian hair, Nature Girl and Bliss are also popular vendors.

Extensions can also be divided into categories pertaining to their method of attachment, the main divisions being: clip-ins (hair that comes on toupee clips or similar attachments that are clipped into the roots of your own hair and taken out at night) or permanent (not, in fact, permanent at all, but will last in your hair for a few weeks up to three or four months and cannot be removed at night). No extensions will last longer than three or four months, because (if for no other reason), when your hair grows, the extensions will be farther away from the scalp/roots, and will need to be moved back up.

Beyond that, when it comes to "permanent" extensions, there is a distinction between: strand-by-stand (also known as individuals or interlocking), which means that a "strand" (actually a few hundred strands) of extensions hair is adjoined to small (usually 1/4 inch) sections of your own hair; and wefts (in which hair is sewn on to a long strip of material resembling a grass skirt or curtain and then attached either by sewing onto cornrowed tracks, microlinking onto tracks, or bonding). There are other basic distinctions, such as braids, dreads, and loose extensions. These boards deal primarily in loose (free-flowing) extensions, so the following will apply to that type only. (If you're interested in dreads, braids, wool, or other alternative styles, Quinnster's is the best online source of information; you'll find the link below.)

Again, wefts can basically be attached to the hair via weaving, bonding, or microlinks. Strand-by-strand extensions can be attached in myriad ways, including various forms of weaving; pinchbraiding (also known as HairPolice, or string, method); Micro-Illusions, or Micro-Point Illusions; fusion (with glue, glue sticks, and glue guns, or prebonded hair--some fusion brand names include Great Lengths, Monkey Barz, Balmain, Cinderella, and so forth). There is also the dome heat-sealing method, which can only be used with synthetic hair; it uses boxbraiding and a heat clamp to seal synthetic hair in on itself (this is quite complex to do, and usually requires two people to install). The Prostyles method is a slightly modified version of the Dome method, which uses a three-way braid and therefore doesn't require an extra set of hands. Heat-seals can be used with human hair extensions, although this is unusual.

Beyond that, there are loc-ing/linking methods (including microrings, extendtubes, and microlinks, which are available for home use, as well as Eurolocs and Hairlocs, which are done by those companies' "certified" extensionists); these are metal tubes (usually aluminum, nickel, or copper) that are clamped down on pretipped strands with your own hair to keep them in place. And finally, there are shrinkies (also known as Shrink Links, which is the branded Mark Barrington salon version, and some people also use dual-wall shrink tubing for this); they are clear tubes that, when heated with a clamp/wand, "shrink" around pretipped extensions strands with your own hair to keep them in place.

As I mentioned before, there are products that fall into all of these categories that are available for DIY, or at-home, use, and others that are only available to licensed stylists. Professionals, of course, can also use the DIY methods, but not the other way around. The branded methods are generally much more expensive. All of the salon versions are capitalized above; the DIY versions are lowercased.

Just read through the information, and take your time. Different people have different results with various methods, but doing a lot of research will help you find the best method for you.

Good luck!
User avatar
sherrie215
Site Admin
 
Posts: 6758
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:17 am

Postby sherrie215 on Mon Dec 25, 2006 12:07 am

Strand by Strand Methods:

Fusion Method:
Fusion hair extensions are attached by glueing small (approx)1/4 inch sections of hair with a near equal amount of extension hair. The glue is hot, and the strands of extension hair and natural hair are rolled into a cylinder shaped bond. Fusion can be done with a glue gun and glue sticks, a hot pot with keratin chips, pellets,grains or any varying forms, or with a heat wand and preglued strands (aka nail tips). Keratin glue is the preferred glue for fusion extensions.

Shrinkies/Shrink tubes Method:
Shrinkies are a small plastic heat shrink tube and usually a shrink tube with an adhesive inner lining provides the best hold. The natural hair and the pretipped hair (aka stick hair) are threaded into the shrink tube and a fusion/heat wand is used to apply heat to shrink the tube around the hair and extension strand.

Microrings/Linkies/Extendtubes Method:
Are metal/nickel/copper or aluminum tubes. A microring is threaded onto the natural hair strand and a pretipped extension strand is inserted into the ring. A extension plier is used to clamp the ring shut. There are several types of rings on the market. Some people prefer the silicone lined rings which help to protect the natural hair from damage, while others report no damage from regular type of microrings.

Pinchbraid Method:
The extension hair and a thick thread are braided with the natural hair for about an inch, at which point the ends of the thread are wrapped around the base of the braid and tied, securing it. This method is best for synthetic hair (but can also be used for human hair) and takes 7-8 hours for a full head. It generally lasts for 2-4 months, and the extension hair can be re-used for a second application of the extensions.
User avatar
sherrie215
Site Admin
 
Posts: 6758
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:17 am

Postby sherrie215 on Mon Dec 25, 2006 12:27 am

Weft Methods

Glue Bonding Method:
The natural hair is parted in rows, generally running ear to ear and temple to temple or horizontal rows. Tracks of wefted hair are measured and cut to fit the length of the part. Bonding glue is applied to the track and pressed onto the hair at the root near the scalp. There are various types of glue and techniques for track bonding.

Tape Methods:
The natural hair is sectioned into rows, making horizontal parts. A special adhesive tape is applied to the track of machine wefted hair, handtied hair wefts or skin wefts and applied to the hair much like the glue bonding method. Again there are various tapes and techniques for tape bonding.

Sew-in Method:
The natural hair is braided (corn rowed) into a foundation (tracks). The wefted hair is then sewn onto the tracks. The patterns used for the braided foundation are usually based on the final style desired to be achieved. Other variations include the use of a weaving net which allows a flatter style or creating styles which are not completely dependent upon the underlying braid pattern.

Microring/Weft Method:
Tiny paint-coated metal beads, called microrings are pre-attached to the weft. Hair on the weft is then attached using a method similar to a microring strand instruction. (people with nickel or other metal allergies may not be ale to use this method.) E-Z Weft has a (VERY LONG) video step-by-step tutorial on the process:
http://www.ezweft.com/tips.html
User avatar
sherrie215
Site Admin
 
Posts: 6758
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:17 am


Return to Methods Overview, Demos/Tutorials, Links

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron